For most of the year Suma Beach, Kobe is an almost deserted, peaceful and generally clean waterfront area. You can see a few joggers, fishermen and occasional beach volleyball tournament, but don’t expect to see crowds of people or anyone swimming during the off season.
However, this all changes for a short 6 week period in summer. Suma Beach comes alive with beach houses to enjoy some food and drinks and plenty of beachgoers.
Update for Summer 2023
This year sees the the summer activities at Kobe’s infamous Suma Beach on once again. However, there are only a handful for places for the 2023 season. There are 3 beach houses set up in front of Suma Station and a couple down at the Suma Kaihin Koen (aquarium) end.
The aquarium is closed as the final stages of the huge new facility, which will open next year, are being completed.
All in all, this years summer at Suma seems quite small compared to before the pandemic. Let’s hope that after the aquarium is completed next year will be bigger and better than ever.
From late June you can see the temporary beach houses, a.k.a. bars, being put up. Wooden decks, bar counters, changing rooms, showers and toilets all get installed to cater for the thousands of beachgoers that flock to the area from all over Kansai.
As the Marine Day (Umi-no-hi) long weekend in July rolls around, the official open party takes place at the r beach houses along the 1.5km stretch of sand. There are two main areas; one directly in front of JR Suma Station and the other at the Suma Aquarium end (a 10 minute walk from JR Sumakaihinkoen Station).
The vibe of each area is a little different with the Suma Station end attracting the younger crowds and the Suma Aquarium end attracting an older, family oriented crowd. Although, in saying that, depending on the day or event happen there could be crossover and many people walk between both ends.
Most beach houses offer a food menu, from basic fried food to full BBQ sets. Drink prices seem to be set across the board so you won’t find one beach house significantly different than another. Japan’s open alcohol policy means you can BYO and drink anywhere on the beach.
In years gone by they party atmosphere was a little wilder with large stages, red bull tents, swimsuit contests and live bands playing to the early mornings. BBQs on the sand and handheld fireworks were also allowed. Due to tightening of regulations, music is contained to inside the beach houses and the decibels are turned down. The day wraps up at about 8pm.
However, the regulations haven’t kept people away. In fact, I would say it’s added an element of sophistication with some of the beach houses doing away with plastic deck chairs and tables and adding quality outdoor lounge furniture and a wider variety of food to draw in customers. Before you plonk yourself down on that hammock or lounge chair though, make sure you check there isn’t a charge with some places add up to ¥3000 for use.
Kobe city spent a lot on beautification of the area in 2017 with new foot paths, public showers and toilets. Recent rule changes mean that some activities, such as smoking, are restricted to certain areas making the waters edge more family friendly.
So make the most of the summer and head down to Suma Beach for a uniquely Japanese summer experience.
